Finally
we reached Badrinath. And after visiting Lord Badrinath with his lovely wife, I
should have been the happiest. A twenty-two day pilgrimage had finally come to an end.
All the char dhams of the Char Dham Yatra were paid a visit and blessings obtained
(blessings obtained has been assumed).
But no.
I wasn’t the happiest. Rather there was this deep feeling of a vacuum. Didn't know
what next to do. In this very weird state of mind, I decided to visit the
nearby village called Mana. Mana is a village in the Himalayas, near Badrinath.
Apparently it’s the last village in India. From there on, the region is barren,
rocky, without any vegetation, and then it’s China. Seeing this, and a temple,
this visit also ended. What next now?
Let me take
you to the start of the journey. For most of them, the start was from Delhi.
But for me, it was Mumbai, right after completing my Masters. A just-by-chance
trip that I had joined, not knowing anyone in the tour (apart from my mom’s
cousin – Ruchi, whom also I didn't really know well, she had taken only five songs in her Motorola, that we heard through the entire trip). The only reason
I had taken this pilgrimage at an age of 24 years was to visit the Himalayas... while it sounds so cool and adventurous, the real reason was that I didn't know what to do with myself till I joined work!
The
Himalayas had always excited me. This was going to be my first visit to them. I
was over the top! I didn't care whom I knew or not. I was only looking forward
to the highest dream of mine (literally). And believe me, there is really no
comparison to these beautiful mountains. They are mysterious and welcoming at
the same time.
The
twists and turns, the narrower than narrow lanes, the rivers following us alongside,
the mini buses, the extreme climate, the basic food which tasted heavenly there
and the oldies around are all memories in bits and pieces that are left.
From Delhi,
the tour proceeded to Mathura, Vrindavan, and Agra. Yes, I saw the Taj Mahal,
and I was so overwhelmed that I had tears in my eyes! But the others around me weren't as mesmerised as I was. To them it was probably just a burial with a story of a
lover. But that’s okay as you can’t make everyone understand the history and emotions.
Then it
was Haridwar, Rishikesh and Mussorie. Oh God! What had I become a part of! I
really didn't like visiting temples and participate in the rituals associated with it. And
4 days gone by, we had not even completed one of our main temples of Char Dham.
With no hot water facilities, I was given a secret solution. To chant ‘har har
Gange’ and without a second thought to pour the cold water over (*shivers now*).
It worked. And then these chants became a daily routine! Do note, Haridwar
hosts the best Ganga aarti on the banks of the river itself. Experiencing it is
like meditating. And even though I didn't understand much of it, it gave some
kind of inner peace.
From Mussorie,
our life changed. Our timings changed. Our routines changed. We became nomads.
Halted at various places just for overnight stays, all to reach the bigger goal
of our life – completing the Char Dham yatra! We used to get up at 2am / 3am, brush teeth, pack bags and get into our mini bus. A roll call would happen to confirm all have come and no one is missed out. And then started the journey to very very far places. Our actual sleep used to happen in the bus. Its quite commendable to us sleepers too, who will comfortably sleep even in the winding roads and blaring horns.
Yamnotri is a 10 km trek uphill. We decided to do this on foot, declining the 'pithu' and 'doli' and horseback. The sight alongside is something which has to be seen. Even after 7 years of my trip, I remember the beauty of the mountain. I had even captured it. But seeing is believing. It cannot be explained. It cannot be put into words. Even the best of writers would fumble to bring out its true beauty.
From Yamnotri, the next on agenda is Gangotri, and the good thing is that the mini bus will drop us at the temple premise. Phew! Couldn't be on a trek every 2 days! On seeing the Alaknanda (that's what Ganga is called at that stage in her course), people go berserk. All they want to do is fill gallons and gallons of the 'holy water' to take back home and give to their friends and relatives. Its like prasad! Many believe that this 'holy water' can cure illnesses and give a person 'moksh'.
Next destination was the Kedarnath Temple, the highest of the char dhams, located more than 14000 feet above sea level. It snows there and its all white. The temple is ancient, and Shiva resides there in everyone's hearts. There are many who have spotted Om in the surrounding mountain ranges and clouds. But I wasn't one of them. Even if Om was there, I would have easily missed it. Kedarnath is also one of the jyotirlingas. And I think it was the most crowded one too. Its a 14 km trek to reach here. And this time, we decided to ride on horseback. So only our butts were tired. Kedarnath, being at a height has less oxygen. Chances of suffering from breathing problems and claustrophobia get higher. So even at night, no matter how cold it gets, the windows of the room have to be left open! Thankfully, hot water bath was available, else I would have cancelled bathing altogether.
And then we headed to Badrinath, where we completed our Char Dham yatra and became 'pious souls'. It was now time to return. Believe it or not, I was looking forward to meet my parents, to resume my mundane routine and just be back to the hustle bustle of the city!
Points I missed:
- I was extremely skeptical of this trip. I didn't know whether I would enjoy it or not. So even with all the heavy luggage and clothes that would last me for a month or more, I carried my books!
- I was overjoyed in Mussorie when I saw pizzas, Cafe Coffee Day and younger looking people. Its a wonderful place.
- I suffer from low to no urine when I travel. There was a time when all the aunties in our mini bus insisted I urinate on the highway. The circled around me, and literally made me pee on road!
- Kedarnath is one temple I would want to visit again. I loved the entire feeling.
- Every Char Dham temple is located at a peak, and all have a public bath on its slopes. The people there are not conservative or traditional or orthodox. They are okay to publicly take a dive in the ponds and to change clothes. Its a different India there. Its the religious India.
- My Nani had given me a silver leaf to be given at the Kedarnath temple and a saree to be given at Yamnotri. Mom and Kaki also gave sarees for Yamnotri and Gangotri. I gave away all these. I never had to remember that I had to do all that. It naturally came to me. I think its the aura around that makes you do things by default.
- When I came back, my Nani wanted to see all pictures. When I showed them to her, I told her that the places are actually much more beautiful than these pictures. She had tears in her eyes. She prayed at each picture of the temple. She thanked me and said that it was because of me she was able to visit the Char Dham. She saw the Char Dham through my eyes! I can never forget this conversation. And I gladly dedicate this trip to her.
- When I reached home, I faced problem in getting back into the regular life. I couldn't sleep at nights at a stretch. And would often wake up at odd hours.
- I had stories to tell everyone, everytime. They might have got bored of me too.
This ‘what
next?’ feeling is what is disturbing. The sense of satisfaction never came. The
only time it would come is when I start planning another trip! I don't know if I will ever do such a trip again. But just the thought that there lies a lot more unexplored, waiting for me, excites me. Wondering if I would be able to travel alone again.